Vitoria-Gasteiz, the Olympus of pintxos

Its title of Green Capital of Europe 2012 put it on the international map. But the capital of Álava province is much more than an urban oasis for lovers of nature and sports. Its almond-shaped mediaeval old town rubs shoulders with cutting-edge buildings and sculpture dotted around it to make a traditionally modern city whose streets hide not only spectacular churches but also veritable temples to the pintxo. Food is one of the great pleasures Vitoria has to offer, keeping up a rich tradition while forging ahead with modernity and adapting to new trends. It is precisely diversity that characterises every aspect of the city, making it a little gem of extraordinary exquisiteness. With a glass of Rioja Alavesa wine in your hand, get your five senses ready to explore this treasure map, which will reveal where the city's greatest culinary wonders are to be found: In the centre, El Sagartoki (Calle El Prado, 18) offers you a miniature snack made of potato purée with bacon and egg yolk inside to make it into very solid food; while at El Clarete (Calle Cercas Bajas, 18) you can find a variety of traditional dishes with a personal, signature twist to achieve a fine result that you're sure to remember for a long time. If you believe that less is more, El Rincón de Luis Mari (Calle Rioja, 14) is the place for you and Antxopi is what you are looking for. A simple but delicious piece of bread topped with pepper, anchovy, boiled egg, a touch of mayonnaise and olive oil. It's impossible not to be captivated. Precisely because Vitoria is a city packed with dualities, PerretxiCo (Calle San Antonio, 3) on the other hand creates a puzzle in which the most traditional ingredients fit together perfectly with a modern touch in its pintxos to create a cuisine characterised by its harmonious variety. For its part, the lively Calle Dato is home three unmissable bars: the Saburdi, the Usokari and the Regadera. You'll be hooked on the cod ajoarriero (with garlic, oil and paprika), while the delicious titbits in the Usokari and the Regadera will reel you in. However, before continuing your expedition in the old town, try the Gilda (a cocktail stick with a chilli pepper, an olive and an anchovy) at the Toloño (Calle San Francisco, 3); this is obligatory as legend tells that it's the best in the city. Their mushroom risotto is also a veritable institution, however. The pintxos at La Virgen Blanca (Plaza Virgen Blanca, 2) in the square of the same name also add to the city's fame. Don't miss them. When you visit the old quarter of Vitoria-Gasteiz and lose yourself in its winding streets, you can feel the magic that fills its old stones; since its foundation by Sancho VI in 1181, it has been the setting for historic events and has bewitched both artists and travellers. A visit to delight the eyes as well as the palate, your outing simply must include stopping at the Bar Erkiaga (C/ Herrería-Errementari, 38), which represents the exquisite dual character of the city, serving award-winning, innovative pintxos in a historic setting. Highlights among its creations include: Silencio (Silence), toast with a surprisingly delicious mixture of rocket, spring onion, strawberry, tomato, scallop, octopus and smoked hake; and La Vieira del Peregrino (The Pilgrim's Scallop), a scallop confited at low temperature with a reduction of Albariño wine, seaweed vinaigrette and mussel foam on a decorative dry ice base. Moreover, La Malquerida (Calle Correria, 10) and El Siete (Cuchillería, 3) are bars serving high-quality pintxos which, together with the setting, leave an indelible mark on both the palate and the memory. Jazz and rock, renaissance and avant-garde, industry and nature. Vitoria-Gasteiz is a place of harmonious contrasts. Rich in sensations and culture. A culture that has evolved and adapted to suit new times, but always with the cult of food as the thread running through it. A city lying at the foot of its historic hill is a veritable Olympus of pintxos.